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Le Désert du Kyzyl-Kum et Le Lac Aydar Kul | Voyage Asie Centrale et Route de la Soie

Le Désert du Kyzyl-Kum et Le Lac Aydar Kul

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Désert Kyzyl-KumAisément accessible depuis Boukhara, le désert du Kyzyl Kum signifiant sable rouge est une vaste étendue de petites dunes sablonneuses et recouvertes de petits buissons où vit une faune diverse et abondante, chèvres, chacals, loups, varans, insectes multiples. En mars ou avril, le désert se recouvre de pavots et de tulipes, en faisant l’époque idéale pour s’y rendre. Brisant la monotonie du sable et des buissons de plantes asséchées, les fleurs ne font cependant leur apparition que pour quelques jours....
La principale attraction d’une excursion dans le Kyzyl Kum est le lac Aydar-Kul, signifiant lac salé, créé accidentellement à la suite du déversement d’un réservoir kazakh dans les années 70... Depuis, son niveau ne cesse de monter et son volume dépasserait même celui de la mer d’Aral! Cette apparition surréaliste en plein désert permet une baignade rafraîchissante et l’observation de nombreux oiseaux colorés venus profiter des eaux poissonneuses du lac. A quelques kilomètres, il est possible de résider dans un camp de yourtes installé par les kazakhs en été où sont proposés des petits safaris à dos de chameau ou des randonnées à cheval... une expérience inoubliable.

Kyzyl Kum désertNourata
Sur la route, il est possible de visiter la cité de Nourata, dont la légende raconte qu’elle est la plus ancienne cité d’Asie centrale. Mais, n’ayant pas été fouillée, la date de sa création reste floue même si le IV ème siècle avant notre ère est privilégié par les archéologues et le historiens. Son nom provient du mot ‘’Nour’’, signifiant lumière en persan du fait de la luminosité particulière produite par le soleil lorsqu’il se reflète sur la source qui s’écoule en contrebas de la ville, considérée comme sacrée. Les pèlerins affluent d’ailleurs pour s’y abreuver et remplir des bouteilles pour en ramener à leur famille. Deux petites mosquées jumelles ont d’ailleurs été édifiées près de la source.
Mais si les ruines de cette antique citadelle sogdienne perchées sur les collines sont célèbres, c’est avant tout parce qu’Alexandre le Grand y avait installé une partie de ses garnisons en prévision de la prise de Samarcande. La ville dont les plans auraient été élaborés en suivant les contours de la Grande Ours était réputée pour son efficacité contre les attaques ennemies. Au cœur du désert, ce site historique inattendu mérite un détour.

Photos: Lensfodder